Independent UK aesthetics reporting

Injectables

Botulinum toxin, dermal fillers and skin boosters: what each one is, what the evidence supports, what to ask before anything is injected, and where the United Kingdom rules sit.

In short

The injectables used in UK aesthetic practice fall into three groups that work in entirely different ways. Botulinum toxin type A blocks the signal from nerve to muscle, so it softens movement and the lines movement makes, and the effect wears off. Dermal fillers, usually a hyaluronic acid gel, occupy space and change contour, and most can be dissolved. Skin boosters and biostimulators are injected to change skin quality or provoke a tissue response rather than to fill a shape. Botox is a registered trade mark and one brand of botulinum toxin type A, not the name of the treatment, and in the United Kingdom every botulinum toxin product is a prescription only medicine.

The words, used properly

Most confusion in this category is vocabulary rather than biology. The treatment is botulinum toxin type A; the familiar name is one manufacturer’s brand, which is why this publication writes about the medicine rather than the brand and sets out its position on trade marks in its trade mark notice. Toxin and filler are not variants of one thing: they have different mechanisms, different durations, different risks and different reversibility, and a consultation that treats them as interchangeable has already gone wrong. Anti wrinkle injection is a marketing phrase rather than a clinical one, and it tells you nothing about which of the three groups is being proposed.

What the evidence supports, and where it stops

The mechanism of botulinum toxin is well established and its use in medicine long predates its cosmetic use; chronic migraine, for instance, is a licensed indication delivered to a defined protocol, which is a different proposition from a cosmetic appointment, as our report on toxin for migraine sets out. What is far less settled is the comparative question a patient actually asks: which product, which dose and which technique produces the better result in a given area. Trials in this field are commonly small, short, unblinded and assessed on appearance, and appearance endpoints are the easiest of all to flatter. Any effect is time limited and varies with the area, the dose and the individual, so duration quoted as a fixed number is a convenience rather than a finding.

Filler evidence has its own limit: the material behaves differently in different tissue planes, and a result reported for one area does not transfer to another. Most hyaluronic acid fillers can be broken down with hyaluronidase, which is a genuine safety advantage and not a reset button, as our piece on dissolving filler explains. Where a claim on this publication rests on thin evidence we say so rather than rounding it up; how to read the claims you will be shown is set out in reading injectable treatment claims.

What to ask before anything is injected

Five questions do most of the work. Who is the prescriber, and are they on a statutory register you can search yourself. Have they assessed you in person, rather than signing a prescription for somebody else to administer. Which product and what dose, recorded in your notes. What is the plan if something goes wrong, including who you reach out of hours and, for filler, whether hyaluronidase is on the premises. And what is included afterwards: a review appointment, or nothing. A clinic that answers all five without hesitation has told you most of what you need to know. Our consultation red flags checklist carries the longer version.

Where the United Kingdom rules sit

Botulinum toxin products are prescription only medicines under the Human Medicines Regulations 2012, so one lawfully reaches a patient only through a prescriber. That status also governs how the treatment may be promoted: the Advertising Standards Authority’s published advice states that botulinum toxin products cannot be advertised to the public under rule 12.12 of the CAP Code, and that in practice almost any reference to them in an advertisement is treated as promoting a prescription only medicine, hashtags included. That is why a clinic cannot lawfully advertise the brand or run an offer on it, and why advertising that does so is worth noticing. Dermal fillers are not prescription only medicines, which is why the advertising rules fall differently on them and why the gap between how the two are marketed is so wide. What the words clinic and practitioner do and do not guarantee in law is covered in what aesthetic clinic actually means in UK law and indexed in our UK clinic law clarity index. Rules and regulatory positions change, so check the current position with the body that holds it rather than with us.

Sources and further reading

  1. The Human Medicines Regulations 2012, prescription only medicines and the advertising of medicinal products
  2. Advertising Standards Authority and CAP, advice on advertising botulinum toxin products
  3. Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency
  4. National Institute for Health and Care Excellence, guidance
  5. General Medical Council, the medical register
  6. Nursing and Midwifery Council, search the register
  7. Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners

Disclosure. This page contains no commercial links. The Aesthetic Journal is independently published. Nothing here is medical advice, and no product, brand or clinic is recommended.